Central Hong Kong’s modern skyscrapers soar above one of the world’s busiest harbors. Photo: Andrew Collins.
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By Andrew Collins
Friday, March 14, 2008
Comprising an archipelago of mountainous islands and a similarly precipitous peninsula extending from the China mainland, Hong Kong is one of the world’s most spectacularly beautiful cities. It’s also one of the Pacific Rim’s hottest destinations for gays and lesbians, fans of fashion and gourmet dining, freewheeling investors and entrepreneurs, and devotees of luxury hotels.
From 1842 through 1997, Hong Kong was a British colony. In the decade since the United Kingdom handed this prosperous territory back to China, Hong Kong has continued to enjoy great popularity as a center of business and trade as well as retaining its status as a major tourist destination.
Hong Kong nevertheless maintains its own distinct identity. This territory of about 7 million people has its own currency ($1 U.S. equals about 7.80 Hong Kong dollars as of this writing), law enforcement, legal system, and customs and immigration policies. Automobile traffic follows British road rules, and North American and British citizens do not require visas for entry, as they do when they cross the border into China.
In the major commercial and tourism-driven neighborhoods, most signs and menus are written in English and Cantonese (the territory’s official language), and most residents and employees speak at least some English.
In comparison with other Asian cities, Hong Kong has a fairly visible and well-organized gay community, with an LGBT social and cultural scene that has grown steadily in recent years. This is in part because the city is such an international business and leisure hub, but also because attitudes toward gays and lesbians are steadily becoming more favorable throughout the Pacific Rim. Still, the traditional attitudes of China and even old-school Britain largely prevail. In this sense, gays and lesbians in Hong Kong tend to be more discreet and, in many cases, closeted, than in most major Western cities.
In terms of sightseeing, there’s quite a lot to see and do, and Hong Kong is an easy place to navigate (by cheap and efficient subway lines, ferry boats, taxis, and buses). Hong Kong Island is laced with sculpted bays and beautiful beaches, some of them with gay followings—notably Gold Coast Beach, off Castle Peak Road, and Middle Bay, off South Bay Road. No visit here is complete without taking the tram to Victoria Peak, which rises nearly 2,000 feet above the city center. Also set aside time to visit the massive Tian Tan Buddha statue and the Hong Kong Heritage Museum.
Just keep in mind Hong Kong’s sometimes sultry, semi-tropical climate when planning a visit. From about May through early September, the region becomes inundated by excruciatingly humid and wet weather.
Hong Kong dangles off the tip of southeastern China like a barnacle. Most of the territory is made up of the Kowloon Peninsula and two major islands just to the south, Hong Kong Island and Lantau Island. Visitors focus most of their time in Hong Kong’s city proper, which consists of the northern tip of Hong Kong Island and the southern tip of Kowloon.
Neighborhoods of significance to gay visitors include the fast-paced, if somewhat tawdry, neon-lit streets of Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon, where you’ll find a number of gay saunas and karaoke bars; and the neighboring Lan Kwai Fong and Soho sections of Hong Kong Island’s city center (an area commonly referred to as “Central” by locals).
The Central district is the part of Hong Kong that’s depicted most often on postcards—its gleaming skyscrapers fringe the harbor front and are set against the backdrop of lush Victoria Peak. It’s here that you’ll find most of the city’s top hotels and restaurants. Lan Kwai Fong and Soho are on the western side of Central and can be easily reached from most hotels on foot or by quick and inexpensive cab rides. This hip and trendy area abounds with gay and gay-friendly bars, discos, tapas restaurants, late-night cafes, fashion boutiques, and the like. It’s a hilly area laced with narrow streets, but it’s perfectly safe for exploring.
The neighborhood’s top gay club is Propaganda, which is hidden down an alley just off a stairwell below Hollywood Road. This is a hot spot for tourists and moneyed locals who don’t mind the exorbitant cover charge and steep drink prices. Also popular for late-night clubbing is Drop, which pulls in a mostly under-30 crowd. Opened in early 2007, the gay video lounge Volume is a must on the gay nightlife circuit. It’s a sleek, modern space with colorful and cushy lounge seating, and DJs spin some of the best music in the city.
Another good bet is Works, whose black walls and dim lighting feel a bit dated. Nevertheless, this is actually a quite trendy guy’s hangout. Other worthwhile gay establishments include 2M Bar, an intimate gay and lesbian cocktail bar just down the hill from Hollywood Road, and New Wally Matt Lounge, a long-running pub in Kowloon just a block off Nathan Road.
Club 97 is a snazzy mixed gay/straight spot with more of a "family" following early in the evening, especially on Fridays, for happy hour. Straight and gay hipsters also mingle at Solas, a sleek lounge, and at Finds, an ultra-trendy spot in SoHo with outstanding Asian-cum-Scandinavian food and a smartly dressed crowd.
Hotels in Hong Kong can be expensive, but if you’re willing to spend a few hundred dollars per night, you’ll find some astoundingly fabulous properties. Leading the pack is the magnificent Mandarin Oriental, whose plush rooms and suites are outfitted with every imaginable creature comfort.
On the east edge of Central Hong Kong, in the Wan Chai district, the Grand Hyatt is distinct for its magnificent setting on the edge of the harbor. On the Kowloon side, top upscale hotels include The Peninsula, a grand dame dating from the 1930s, and the Island Shangra-La, a regal, centrally located beauty with fine views of the harbor and several excellent restaurants.
Unfortunately, it can be challenging to find truly memorable accommodations for under $200 a night here, and Hong Kong is without any gay-oriented guest houses or B&Bs.
Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA and eight additional travel guides. He can be reached via nybl@hx.com.
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