The Townhouse Bar has been around for decades. The restaurant isn’t nearly
as old, but may remind you of a gentler era.
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By ETTORE TOPPI
Friday, June 25, 2004
As one of New York’s oldest gay enclaves, East Midtown has long been a
place where gay men of a certain type have congregated. From the ultra-closeted
1950s to today, the bars and clubs of the East 50s have offered a haven for more
conservative, often older, gay men.
Like all New York neighborhoods, of course, the area has changed over the
years and most of the original watering holes are gone. The Townhouse Bar on
East 58th Street remains easily the most visible reminder of the area’s
place in gay New York history. What more appropriate place to celebrate Pride
Week?
Sharing the bar’s name and ownership, but situated at the opposite end
of the block, the Townhouse Restaurant is something of an institution in its
own right. In business for 14 years — a lifetime in the world of New
York restaurants — this eatery is a favorite standby for locals looking
for a gay-safe spot, whether for dinner a deux or merely to dine among other
Friends of Dorothy.
The strange thing about institutions is that you may feel you know them without
actually ever having experienced them. Based on my few visits to the Townhouse
Bar, I expected its sibling restaurant to be similarly stodgy in that same
turn-of-the-century gentlemen’s club kind of way.
Prejudice is bad, and I stand corrected: The Townhouse Restaurant is stodgy
in an altogether different way.
Whereas the bar evokes old New York, the restaurant seems to hearken back
only as far as the 1970s. Caught somewhere between disco-era mirror modern
and Palm Beach retirement village clubhouse beige, the dining room seems to
strive for nothing so much as blandness.
There is, however, one attribute both establishments share: a clientele with
an average age over 60. That could explain the intentional inoffensiveness
of the décor, lest bold design choices affect the patrons’ digestion.
Happily, the dining experience is better than the environment initially suggests.
Service was prompt and attentive. Drinks and a basket of fresh, warm bread
arrived in short order. Dinner is available either a la carte or as an $18.50
prix fixe from a limited menu. We tried it both ways.
Our appetizer course began with crab cakes garnished with chipotle sour cream
and served over mixed greens ($9.50). The cakes were very crabby, featuring
large lumps of tender crab and not much filler, and the sour cream dressing
was nicely spicy.
A Caesar salad ($6.50) was more or less in line with expectations, although
it could have been colder. A better choice was the roasted beet salad ($8.50).
Sliced beets and toasted walnuts over mixed greens were served with goat cheese
on a large crouton. This was light, fresh and very tasty with no skimping on
the beets and walnuts.
We sampled two of the more modestly priced entrees. First was a rollard of
veal ($16.50). This is a breast of veal filled with pancetta, parmesan cheese,
and spinach, rolled and sliced. It’s a fairly savory dish, although there
was sort of a “banquet at the Hilton” quality to it.
Next up was a turkey meatloaf ($16.50) consisting of two generous planks of
seasoned ground turkey, served with Swiss chard and mashed potatoes. Although
we felt the Swiss chard was a mismatched accompaniment, this was otherwise
a flavorful dish that delivered the right comfort food rush one expects from
meat loaf.
Much to our surprise, dessert was the standout course. Tiramisu was rich,
creamy, and liquory. A gorgeously presented apple galette was warm and lightly
sweet, served with ice cream. Both are priced at $7.
All things considered, the Townhouse offers a pleasant meal in relatively
quiet surroundings. If it’s not culinary pyrotechnics, that’s probably
OK. After all, that’s not what their niche customer is looking for.
The wait staff is acceptable and the food is solidly middle of the road. A
la carte meals may cost slightly more than they’re worth, but in a world
where “gay-friendly” often means “expensive,” the prix
fixe is a good value.
Whether you’re a gentleman “of a certain age,” or just a
couple looking for a spot where you can be affectionate without rude stares,
check out this gay landmark.
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